Into Austria! Leo Hillinger’s 2018 Pinot Noir ‘Eveline’
As the days shorten and the thermometer drops here in New York, everyone seems to slump into that sleepy autumn mood. For me, this means wool sweaters, books, and of course, red wine. So, when my acquaintance Jessica from the Leo Hillinger winery offered me to taste their pinot noir, I was thrilled. This is my first review outside of my German wine niche, so it was a great experience to delve into research on Austria’s winemaking and terroir.
When Americans think of Austrian wine, what often comes to mind is the country’s hallmark grüner veltliner, a zesty white wine perfect for summer. But when that cold weather rolls around, Austria has some stunning red wines to cozy up with. The Leo Hillinger vineyards lie in the easternmost state of Austria, in Burgenland. Just a stone’s throw away from Vienna, their estate is on the northern tip of lake Neusiedler, a well-known winemaking area.
Lake Neusiedler’s terroir lends itself to a few different styles of wine. At lower elevations, the fog from the lake creates ideal conditions for noble rot to occur, a well sought-after fungus that produces sweet wines. On the other hand, higher elevations are suitable for dry wines, with varietals such as blaufränkisch, zweigelt, and pinot noir. The lake also has a cooling effect in the summer which is perfect for these reds, who fall flat without a high acidity and cool fruits.
The Tasting
The wine had a beautiful ruby hue. Aromas of fresh strawberries, roses in bloom, and soil transported my mind’s eye to a beautiful summer garden. On the palate: tangy cranberries and hints of herb, maybe rosemary. I also got a slight earthy taste. The high acidity and moderate alcohol held up the wine’s structure, balanced out by supple fruit and silky tannins. Consistent finish with an herbal aftertaste.
To get more technical, the wine had a two-week maceration period, helping to develop fresher fruit notes. Maceration is when the crushed grapes are soaked in the juice. It was then aged for 15 months in used french oak barrels, a great match for pinot noir which imparted some delicate herbal notes. Leo Hillinger is a certified organic winery, which to me illustrates a dedication to quality. As for Austria’s 2018 vintage, it was characterized by a hot and arid summer. Despite this, the year managed to produce some stunning red wines. I imagine the lake’s cooling effect really pulled its’ weight for this Leo Hillinger vintage.
I recently started working in the cheese industry and will be providing cheese-wine pairings on my blog! For this bottle, I suggest a one-year, cave-aged, Beemster Gouda. Produced from cattle who graze on the salt-rich pastures of northern Holland, this cheese does a fantastic job of expressing its’ terroir. The saltiness of the cheese balances out the wine’s fruit, and the fresh acidity of the wine cuts into the creaminess of the cheese. A hint of caramel from the gouda adds a flair. What a treat!
Leo Hillinger’s slogan: “More than Wine” is a clear ethos that is evident in the glass. Many wineries have to find themselves between the past and the future of the land they work, and the Leo Hillinger winery has done exactly that. Bordering Hungary, their region has changed hands across many empires, from the Romans to the Hapsburgs. Today, they produce great modern wines with a nod their terroir’s regal history. That said, this pinot noir will surely make for a delicious addition to your cellar. Thank you to Jessica for this great recommendation.
