Bernkastel-Kues: The Heart of the Middle Mosel
Looking at pictures of your next holiday destination, it can be easy to build up unrealistic expectations. That aqua blue water? less instagram-worthy in real life. My visit to Bernkastel-Kues however, filled me with wonder. It quenched my thirst for something great and brought me closer to the ever-elusive concept of terroir.
Surrounded by some of the world’s steepest vineyards, a roman castle, and half-timbered houses, this village doesn’t hold back on old-world charm. Explore the cobble stoned streets while you reflect on love poems about wine, confessed in beautiful murals on the houses. Walk into a wine store and you’ll often be talking to the winemaker themself!
After hiking up to the Roman Castle and savoring the view, I headed back down to taste. My search brought me to two places. The first wine bar had a decent lineup but wasn’t too exciting. Afterwards, while scouting wine lists like high school football talent, something caught my eye. A 1995 riesling spätlese for just eight euros a glass.
As a disclaimer, I want to say that the vast majority of wine does not age well. Riesling, on the other hand, is like that friend who always looks ten years younger than they are. Even then, it isn’t just premium rieslings that can age well. A decently produced bottle can evolve into something interesting if given the time.
The wine was from a local producer served at their own bar. The deep gold hue affirmed its rarity, eluding being drunk the past few decades. Lavish aromas of honey, petrol, and brandy jumped out of the glass. (Petrol is a classic aged-riesling note, but often mistaken on young wines).
On the palate, the high acidity balanced out the concentrated flavors of honeysuckle, apricot, and dried nuts. The sweetness was a bit too much for me but didn’t overwhelm my palate. All in all, this was a really interesting wine to taste, particularly to see how riesling evolves over time.
What I also loved about this place are the accommodations here called Ferienwohnungen, holiday apartments. They are rented out by families and provide a truly welcoming experience. I stayed at Ferienwohnung Eckstein, who even produce their own wine! I loved sitting by the koi pond with Heinz and his wife, sipping their wine and talking about the town’s history.
With so much to experience and enjoy, I think Bernkastel-Kues is well worth a visit. If you do, don’t forget to bring a bottle or two home! Cheers.
