Bois de Boursan
Rows of gnarled vines bathing in sunshine, a gentle breeze, and the quiet hum of the cicadas. Distracted by the demands of everyday life, sometimes we’re whisked to the present by something remarkable. How do we remember these wonderful places? For Jean-Paul Versino, he captures the countryside charm of his vineyards in every bottle.
Walking with Jean-Paul through his vineyards reminds me that winemakers are farmers first. An unassuming estate of ten hectares in one of France’s most prestigious appellations, Domaine Bois de Boursan stands out from its’ aristocratic neighbors. The papal keys embossed onto each bottle of Châteauneuf-du-Pape have long been a marker of this wine’s quality and important history. 13 varieties, white and red, are permitted in this appellation, all contributing their unique character to these distinctive wines.
The estate is home to some impressively old vines, ranging between 35 and 115 years old. Older vines are prized for the quality of their fruit, consistent even in more challenging vintages. Employing a traditional style, old oak barrels are used to develop the wines beautifully without compromising their character. The reds are vinified with stems, adding freshness and complexity to the wines. Everything is hand harvested and organically farmed.
I tasted through three of their bottles. Their Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, red, and red reserve.
The Blanc’s freshness struck me, in such a hot region the wine retained a well-balanced acidity. Ripe peaches, camomile, lemon grass, and a pleasant minerality. Clairette, grenache blanc, roussane, and bourboulenc are used in the blend. It’s perfect for an apéritif.
The red had a beautiful rustic character with notes of cassis, hay, red cherry, licorice. Surprisingly approachable at this young age but would develop nicely in the cellar.
The “Cuvee des Felix” is their reserve, only made in the best years and consists of 60% grenache, 25% mourvèdre, and 5% syrah, and 5% other grapes. What a special wine. Rich, powerful, ripe cassis, red cherry, hay, tobacco, licorice, cinnamon. Smooth tannins. Powerful and restrained in the right ways. I bought a bottle to cellar!
Coming home from my visit to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, I guarded both camera and wine with the utmost care. I love how these wines are so accessible at a young age and can develop in bottle for years to come. I hope you seek out these wonderful wines and enjoy them as I have. Cheers!
