Rivers and Castles: The Riesling of Schloß Stahlek
During my trip to Germany in June, I made an unforgettable stop in the quaint town of Bacharach. The town is located along the Rhine River in the Mittel-Rhein appellation. Secured by a 13th century wall and nestled between vineyard slopes, the town has remained remarkably intact.
Since time immemorial, rivers have laid the foundation for civilizations, and what is a civilization without wine? Here in Bacharach, the sun-soaked slopes and slate soils produce amazing Riesling. In Germany, steep slopes provide some unique advantages for viticulture. The loose slate soil supports proper drainage, while also retaining the daytime heat, cozying the vines at night.
In town, I stopped to chat with a retailer who sold a handful of wines produced in and around Bacharach. He recommended me Weingut Brück’s “Schloß Stahlek” Riesling, a bottle representative of their region’s winemaking.
The name of this wine comes from a 13th century castle that overlooks the Rhine: Schloß Stahleck. Recently turned into a youth hostel, I couldn’t help but laugh when I walked into the courtyard and found it overrun by hordes of German Kinder (kids). I took a seat on a picnic bench overlooking the Rhine and poured myself a glass. The wine was a glowing hue of gold, with a watery rim. I got pleasant aromas of apricot, a hint of lime, and white flowers. On the palate there were further notes of apricot, a fresh acidity and subtle notes of honeysuckle. As I drank this wine, I noted its’ refreshing minerality.
Schloß Stahlek is a wine made by the Brück family. Like many German wineries, Weingut Brück is a family run vineyard. At every step of the way, someone in the Brück family is guiding the wine along. Work in the steep slopes of the MittelRhein is not easy, and the extremity of the terroir fosters a deep connection between the land and the wine. Hiking through the vineyards, I was struck by an oasis of serenity. This view has long been a source of romantic inspiration. Well before becoming a UNESCO world heritage site, Bacharach mesmerized Victor Hugo and other romantic artists. Hugo expressed this in 1840: “I am currently in one of the most beautiful, most pleasant and most unknown towns in the world.”
Quiet ships chugging along the Rhine, a gentle breeze, and rows of vines stretching down to the riverbank. Terroir, to me, is not only the physical nature of a vineyard but also its’ essence. Capturing more than the tangible is where winemaking becomes an art. Proßt!
