Vineyard Visit: Dr. Burklin Wolf
It was early June in the Pfalz, and I was on the train to Bad Dürkheim. In just a few months, rowdy Germans would fill these trains going to and from the Wurstmarkt, Germany’s largest wine and sausage festival. But for now, the train was quiet, whizzing by fields full of verdant vines. We met up with Dr. Bürklin Wolf’s export manager Oskar Micheletti, who happily received us and showed us around the estate. We were in the southern part of Wachenheim.
Wachenheimer Altenburg, one of their premier cru sites.
“Here we have many different soil types in quite a small area. This enables us to produce five different types of dry riesling, and that’s what we want to communicate with our wines. Very powerful, strong identity wines that communicate where they’re from and what they’ve grown on.”
As someone who has learned about wine through work and education, there’s nothing like visiting a vineyard. To feel the sun on your back and the soil between your fingers enriches your understanding of terroir with a sensory experience. You notice what species of grasses grow amongst the vines, see the pollinators buzzing about. These seemingly minute observations are important.
The environment is changing constantly, and a diverse ecosystem can safeguard the vines from that volatility. That diversity is an essential aspect of biodynamics, which Bürklin Wolf has practiced since 2003. Different herbs and natural fertilizers are employed to reinvigorate the health of the soil.
“ The idea of biodynamic farming is to give back balance to nature and soil, fostering a connection with each other. ”
The estate is lucky to own some of the most coveted vineyards in Germany, with parcels in legendary grand cru sites such as Kirchenstück and Gaisböhl. Though terroir itself gifts the potential for outstanding fruit, the care taken in the vineyard and the cellar ensures phenomenal wines. The heat was palpable that day, and after some time in the fields we were ready to see the cellar.
The Cellar
We toured the cellar, home to a variety of stainless-steel tanks and oak barrels. The winery employs used oak barrels for the higher quality wines. These benefit from the oxygen contact but retain their character since the oak flavor has been greatly reduced in previous uses. Spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts further bring out the individuality of these wines.
We explored the maze of bottles, a thick layer of dust hiding their identities. With the wipe of a hand, we unearthed wines dating back to the 1950’s. They even have estate bottles from the 1800’s! Wine enthusiasts understand that the majority of examples cannot age that long. However, riesling is considered one of the most age-worthy wines, thanks to its’ high acidity and complex flavor profile.
The Tasting
After our crash course in everything about the winery, it was time for our tasting. We stepped into their stately tasting room, a french salon complete with cozy furniture. Tasting through their portfolio, we went from entry-levels to their grand crus. What impressed me about the tasting was the range of flavors we encountered. Though grape varietals often have signature tasting notes, riesling is a great chameleon, displaying the soil it’s grown on quite beautifully. One of my favorites was the 21’ Wachenheimer Goldbächel.
Grand Cru Tasting
When we got to the grand crus, we slowed our pace and took our time. “To me, what makes a grand cru is the sense of place. We show this in all of our wines but that philosophy culminates in our grand cru wines.” Oskar added.
The 2021 was young and lively with aromas jumping out of the glass. Fresh lime, wet stone, grapefruit, and ginger. The fruit was still dominating the palate and I’m excited to revisit after cellar time.
The 2017 had wonderful aromas of yellow apple, hints of petrol, and citrus blossom. The palate was sumptuous with notes of white peach and sourdough. A racy acidity and long finish. This is developing really nicely and still has a ways to go!
The Gaisböhl vertical tasting was really fun. Both wines were at different stages of development but there was a strong resemblance between the two. It demonstrated how a powerful site identity can be greater than its' vintage.
My visit to Dr. Bürklin-Wolf was a delightful experience. Thanks to Oskar Micheletti for showing Nicolai and I around. Their American importer is Skurnik Wines, so be on the lookout for this awesome producer. Cheers.
